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David Phinney, Orin Swift's founder, likes to change the production of wine around, and start with a label or name before the juice. Here, he has picked a layered scene of many different mannequins, and matched his chardonnay to that - immediately full of floral and citrus flavours, these are layered with pineapple and sea salt. Then, when you get into it, juicy peach and nectarine is balanced by a vibrantly zesty finish, with toffee and honey. The complexity is owed to the various vineyards which Swift uses to create this wine, each adding something of their own to the bottle. This full-throttle wine is different; energetic, complex and exotic.