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From one of the world's great vineyards - Bien Nacido, this is a grand and stately wine. A very orderly structure with precision and focus. It's neither evidently fat, nor lean, nor overly muscular, it feels just right, and the flavours are genuinely remarkable - you get these notes of smoked salt, bacon fat and rhubarb alongside black cherry. It should probably age for a while as it'll flower and open up, but it's still mightily impressive now. Do decant it though.